A Trusted Friend in a Complicated World
Updated on Sep. 03, 2024
Worried about chemicals in your kitchen? These cookware options will keep you safe—and deliver the most delicious results for every dish.
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Cooking at home is supposed to be so much healthier than ordering out, but there’s one way you could be sabotaging your efforts without even realizing it: by not using the safest cookware. The materials used in certain pots and pans may not be great for you, the environment, or your food. That’s why it pays to know what you’re buying.
Pots or pans with a nonstick coating tend to arouse the most concern. That’s because they are usually made with a polymer coating whose active ingredient is called polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), a substance that is more slippery than wet ice, according to the Cookware Manufacturers Association. You may know PTFE by its brand name, Teflon. Studies have found that at temperatures routinely used for cooking (in the range of 400 to 500 degrees Fahrenheit), PTFE releases chemicals that may be unsafe for humans; there is evidence that the same fumes may be deadly to birds, as well. These chemicals also tend to get into our water supply and wreak havoc on the environment because they’re what the FDA calls “forever chemicals.” You may even have some habits that can hasten the wear of your nonstick items, which can ruin your food in addition to causing these other problems.
So, does that mean all nonstick pans are out? And what about your favorite stainless steel and cast iron cookware? We’re going to be honest with you: There’s a lot to think about when deciding on the right items to populate your kitchen. But we’ve made it easy by detailing the pros and cons of each type of cookware below—and highlighting a few great options. Find out which ones will keep your family safe and your food delicious in every cooking scenario.
Before we dive into the specifics of the best cookware, you should know exactly what you could be dealing with if you choose an unsafe option. Concerns about the impact of these chemicals on human health—including liver and thyroid problems, fertility issues, and even some cancers—led many to be banned from production, but no one is sure whether the replacements, like GenX, are any better. In one study of 14 nonstick cooking pans, the overwhelming majority (79 percent) were coated in PTFE. “In some cases,” researchers wrote, “product claims on the packaging could lead buyers to purchase PTFE-coated pans when they think they’re buying an alternative.” An important note: This type of cookware is just one of the items you use every day that could be toxic.
“It can be hard to decipher marketing jargon,” agrees Palak Patel, a chef at the Institute of Culinary Education. “Something can be nonstick but not nontoxic.” As someone who has used countless pans in her career, she recommends home chefs skip the matched set and instead invest in the pieces and materials that work best for the things they like to cook.
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The truth about stainless steel cookware is that it’s really made from a mix of metals. While stainless steel is a durable and nonreactive metal, it’s a poor heat conductor and too heavy on its own. That’s why most stainless pans are what’s known as bonded or clad, says Pamela Stafford, director at Hestan Culinary. They’re comprised of several layers, most often aluminum and stainless, fused together by heat and pressure, and in general, the price goes up with the number of layers. Some manufacturers use alloys that contain nickel for a higher sheen, which can be an issue for people with nickel allergies.
Because of its versatility and durability, stainless steel cookware is the workhorse of a kitchen, but it isn’t nonstick, so you have to use a decent amount of oil or fat. It will also show signs of wear—like scratches and dullness—over time. This 5-quart sauté pan from All-Clad is durable, and you’ll use it all the time. Crafted from three-ply stainless steel, it features straight sides that keep liquids exactly where they’re supposed to be, and it’s also oven- and broiler-safe up to 600 degrees (without the lid). Just make sure not to wash it in cold water when it’s hot or you might ruin it.
Avoid: If you’re trying to cut back on the amount of fat you cook with.
Best for: Just about everything else, even acidic ingredients. (Stainless steel is nonreactive.)
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Avoid: Many ceramic coatings aren’t durable enough to withstand very high heat or rough use over time. The ceramic coating will eventually wear away, so save these pans.
Best for: Any kind of eggs, crepes, or pancakes, as well as delicate fish.
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Best for: “Anything you want to sizzle or char,” says Patel. Think steak, chicken, and pork chops. It’s also ideal for roasting vegetables, deep frying, and even baking things like cornbread.
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Carbon steel is the lighter-weight cousin of cast iron, so it has many of the same benefits, like incredible durability and heat retention, but it’s easier to handle, says Will Copenhaver, vice president of marketing and sales for Smithey Ironware. Because of these qualities, many restaurants prefer carbon steel cookware. Like cast iron, it can go in the oven and requires seasoning.
Smithey offers a lightweight carbon steel “farmhouse” skillet inspired by 18th- and 19th-century designs, and it’s actually hand-forged by a blacksmith. And people adore it, raving that it’s “amazing, marvelous, beautiful, and utilitarian” and so gorgeously crafted that it’s “like a piece of art…an instant family heirloom.”
Avoid: Tomato-based dishes, especially if your carbon steel hasn’t been properly seasoned first.
Best for: Because of its ability to hold a steady high heat, it is excellent for foods requiring a good sear, including steaks, burgers, and scallops. Carbon steel is a great material for woks. It can also be great for roasting anything from asparagus to a whole chicken.
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Best for: The lightweight material is great for things you have to shake as you cook, such as when sautéing vegetables.
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